FREQUENTLEY ASKED QUESTIONS
1) WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A WORKING COCKER AND A SHOW COCKER?
If you can just consider for a moment that there have been working dogs far longer than show dogs then this will give you a perspective to work from.
The working strain of cocker is how a small hunting spaniel was always meant to look, just take a look at old drawings and tapestry's of hunting scenes and you will note the lurcher type dogs and the small sharp nosed hunting dogs.
The physical difference between the two types of cocker is now so significant that I personally no longer class them as the same breed. So when I mention what I consider the show cocker's shortfalls I am not doing it in a really derogatory sense I am just comparing them to the type of dog I feel would make a good working dog.
The working cocker is far more alert than it's show cousin, mentally they are very sharp and many a cocker has driven a Springer trainer to the brink of despair. Working Cockers are very selfish and if there ain't nothing in it for them then really what is the point of doing it in the first place.
Working cockers have a more pointed face, a shallower dome to the forehead, no baggy eyelids and less fleshy ears. The devotees of the show breed will tell you that the ears should be extremely long to help stir up scent and as such they have taken this to an extreme. Lets face it, how many wolves have you seen with ears trailing on the floor? The best tool for enhancing scent is a wet nose as scent is more pungent in a humid atmosphere.
Working cockers should not carry too much extra weight in either bone, flesh or coat. Originally Spaniels were distinguished by weight and a cocker was any Spaniel under 25lbs. Today I have cockers weighing in at 28lbs but I do know of show strain ones weighing in at 40lbs now in the old days this would have been re classified as a Springer. I mentioned the coat, working cockers should not grow excessively long coats and trips to the grooming parlour are unheard of. I comb my dogs ears once a week and that is it.
You see many show cockers with sagging lower eyelids, if this trait were evident in the working strain you would soon see lots of blind working cockers, their eyes would be torn out on their first encounter with thick cover. My own vet has never seen or heard of any eye problems in the working strain cocker!!!
Neither has he heard of any of the bone problems or rage problems associated with the show cocker!!!!
A working cocker should be a happy go lucky little dog with no aggressive tendencies. They have cheeky habits like belly crawling or being disobedient at the worst possible time. They like to bury things and dig for moles, they are always happy to play games, retrieve if not always to hand (turn a few circles around you) and hunt through the long grass, periodically standing on their back lags to get a better view.
Finally the only time my dogs look like their show counterpart is when they are young puppies!!! The technical term for this is NEOTONISATION. Roughly translated this is the process where a species either by evolution or meddling is made to look more child like and innocent so it is more appealing and less threatening. Large eyes, a high domed forehead, short legs and muzzle are all features of a young puppy. Instinctively as humans we are drawn to this less sharp appearance, wanting to love an nurture this poor baby animal and by this time it's five years old and still looking the same as one of my pups :)
The upshot of this lack of meddling is a a disease free animal with a superb temperament!!!!!
2) I HAVE HEARD THAT COCKERS HAVE RAGE SYNDROME WHAT IS IT AND HAVE YOUR DOGS GOT IT??
Cocker rage, red rage or it's correct term IDIOPATHIC SYNDROME is not something ever seen in working cockers. I have my own feelings on why the show cockers have it and it may not tally with the official explanation.
A cocker with rage will for no reason just go blank and then bite anyone near it. Almost like a sort of aggressive fit.
I believe years of in breeding and more inbreeding to isolate the golden gene have produced character flaws, this was once acceptable so long as the dog did not bite the judge but now we are more educated. Unfortunately the show breed is now rife with rage syndrome and it has spread to other colours.
If you must buy a show cocker go to a very reputable breeder who will put you in touch with other puppy owners to clarify they are of sound temperament. A good breeder will not begrudge this.
Another theory I heard on rage syndrome was that it was a result of a suppressed hunting instinct.
3) DO WORKING COCKERS NEED MORE EXERCISE?
The short answer is no! However they do need more mental exercise than other none working types. Searching games, tricks and general obedience all satisfy the desire to work.
4) WHICH IS BEST A DOG OR A BITCH?
This is personal choice. Dogs pee up trees and bitch's come in to season :) Personality wise dogs are more cheeky and try their luck a bit more. Bitch's are more clingy.
5) DO THEY PULL ON THE LEAD?
All dogs pull on the lead if you do not train them correctly.
6) WHEN SHOULD I HAVE A BITCH SPAYED OR A DOG NEUTERED?
I can see it now, you take your little pup in to the vets and one of the first things the vet asks is when are you getting it done :) Vets now look more at revenue and less at welfare.
I will never argue against having these procedures done for the correct reasons. Unwanted pregnancy and reduced risk of cancer are some. However particularly in males, neutering is seen as a cure all from poor appetite to eating the postman.
Lets get one thing straight, neutering will not extinguish something the dog has already learned how to do. Many reasons for neutering are just examples of bad training. Excessive peeing, barking, dog/dog aggression etc.
If you are going to get it done wait until a male is at least one year old and let a female have at least one season before she is spayed. The long and short of it, let them find out what they are first, how would you like it if you had been denied puberty and therefore trapped in a state prior to fully understanding your gender.
7) CAN I HAVE AN UNDOCKED PUPPY?
Sorry, not from me! Primarily my dogs are bred to work. At birth I do not know which dogs are more suited to working and which are more suited as pets. If you want an undocked pup then buy a traditionally undocked breed.
8) WILL IT STILL HAVE A TAIL TO WAG?
You, your kids, your friends and family will never be able to tell my dogs are docked. When a working cocker is docked it is done purely to take the kink out of the end of what would be a corkscrew tail which is easily damaged not only when working but even whilst wagging it in the back of the car, in it's bed etc.
Your pup will have only had the last quarter of it's tail removed and as such has lots of tail to wag. Excessive docking is needless and generally is not condoned by breeders or working spaniels.
9) DOES DOCKING HURT?
Our vet is the senior vet in a practice. He will dock on two conditions one being that the dock is not too short and two that the pup is under 48 hours old.
When dogs are born all the nerves are not yet grown, they go through a process called myalisation where the nerves gradually grow down their spine in the days after birth. When docking is done early the procedure is more uncomfortable than painful because of the excessive handling rather than because of the dock.
Lets face it how many of you would bat an eyelid at whipping a dogs testicles off or removing a bitch's reproductive organs. If we want to debate needless mutilation then lets look at that!!!
If you want to learn more about the case for docking these dogs then have a look at the Council for Docked Breeds website.
10) ARE THEY GOOD WITH KIDS?
The answer to this is yes!! However, I feel that your kids must learn to respect your dog as a dog and not as a human. When I was a kid and the family pet bit me I was immediately questioned as to what I had done to the dog. Nowadays it is automatically the dogs fault and they are quickly rehomed and euthenased.
Kids CAN be little devils with dogs, you cannot expect the dog to put up with ear pulling, eye poking and the removal of it's favourite bone.
You don't only need to train your dog, but you also need to train your family and visitors.
11) WHY DO YOU RECOMMEND CAGES?
Purely and simply this is a refuge for you and the dog. Cages should never ever be used as punishment areas, they are fun areas, sleeping areas and areas where the dog gets to chew it's bone in peace. If you have kids it is an off limits zone. Dog in cage then leave it alone!!
When you go visiting then you can take your dog and cage with you secure in the knowledge that it will not pee on your mother in laws shag pile or chew that table they carefully brought back from Venice.
These cages collapse down in to a flat suitcase type affair and can be used for all manner of applications.
Lets look at the ancient ancestors of dogs, for security they slept under tree stumps, in caves and crevices, an enclosed dog is a happy and secure dog! A dog that is given the wide open space of your kitchen, living room etc will often become frightened of not having a place of sanctuary, this can lead to nervous messing and chewing.
Also, a dog that has totally unlimited access to you can be difficult to motivate in training. If the time you spend with your dog is quality time and not time telling it off for jumping on the furniture, peeing on the carpet, pinching the Sunday roast you will have a much better relationship with your dog.
All my dogs start off life in a cage in my house and then later move out to a kennel, this way they get to experience all the sights, sounds and smells of a house in safety and comfort.
If you are buying a cage then the rule of thumb is that bigger is not better. You should be looking at something that an adult cocker can lay down on it's side and go to sleep in. I usually recommend one about 30 to 36 inches long.
12) HOW SOON CAN MY PUPPY GO OUTSIDE?
We vaccinate our puppies at 7 weeks old. When this is done your puppy is covered for two thirds of the major diseases it can contract. It will need another injection 2 weeks later.
However, it is vital that you get your 7 week old pup out and about. Dogs cannot produce enough adrenaline to appreciate real fear until they are around 12 weeks old. So the more they see and experience between 7 and 12 weeks the more rounded and brave your puppy and future adult will be.
We say use your common sense, do not take your puppy to areas of high depravation where there are likely to be many unvaccinated dogs roaming. We like taking pups to supermarket car parks, outside schools and in the town center. Encourage people to stroke and talk to your pup, give it treats. You would be amazed how many people will be drawn to you and your pup if you just stand near the entrance of your local Tesco's. we get the staff coming out to pat the puppy :)
Finally, if you do not believe me then give Guide dogs for the blind a call. They advocate puppies being taken out on the streets at 6 weeks of age after initial vaccination.
13) CAN MY PUPPY PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS?
Puppies learn through a process called generalisation. Basically if 10 dogs are nice to me then all dogs will be nice to me. If 5 different children are nice to me then all children will be nice to me etc, etc.
If you give your pup the bad experience of being attacked by an introduced dog it will grow up one of two ways. It will either be nervous or it will forever go to get the first bite even against a placid dog.
So pick your circle of doggie friends carefully. Also, be careful of over boisterous play with older dogs. Older dogs tend to want to stand on your pup, compression injuries to joints often arise from this.
However, please remember that dog play is far rougher than what you or I would say is ok. Adult dogs especially can take some real punishment in play and so long as it is not getting nasty, just but out and let them get on with it.
14) CAN I BUY TWO PUPS FROM THE SAME LITTER?
NO!!!! Not unless you have a proven track record in dog training. I usually find this question is asked by people who intend to be out at work all day and want to salve their conscience by providing a play mate for their pup.
Raising two young puppies together can cause severe psychological problems and lets look at it practically, two dogs of the same age are going to get the same things wrong with them at the same time.
15) DOES THE PUPPIES MUM GET SAD WHEN THEY LEAVE?
Never! She is glad to see the back of them. By the 7 week stage she will have very limited access to the pups. How would you feel having half a dozen pups with needle sharp teeth hanging off of your nipples?
16) DO YOU OR YOUR KIDS GET SAD WHEN YOU SEE THE PUPS GO?
Very rarely unless we have built a bond with one particular pup, for instance if it had been ill and required nursing.
From 4 weeks of age puppies are eating and crapping machines, you should smell 8 puppies first thing in the morning, then you would realise why we are not sad to see them go.
17) WHAT DO YOU FEED YOUR PUPS?
All our puppies primarily be weaned on to a very high quality puppy food at around 3 - 4 weeks of age. At 5 weeks we start to let the pups try raw food.
Raw food consists of raw chicken wings, necks, carcasses and tripe. We always advise that you try to maintain this for the future.
If you can stick to a rule of feeding your dog on either a completely raw diet or like us raw one day then complete the next you will drastically improve the health of your dog.
All our dogs have fantastically white teeth from chewing through chicken carcasses. Dogs fed on raw food are healthier, produce less mess, less odour from both their skin and mouth.
For an adult cocker we would suggest 4 to 6 chicken wings every other day. Try to locate a poultry wholesaler in your area. I can buy a 30lb box of wings for £5.00 and in dog food terms you cannot even buy half a bag of mixer for that price.
Next time you go to the pet shop or supermarket and look at the packaging that says "Contains real chicken".
Then think on "So does real chicken".
18) WE THOUGHT YOU COULD NOT GIVE YOUR DOGS CHICKEN BONES!
You can give your dog any uncooked consumable bone. When I say consumable I mean any bone which is soft enough in it's uncooked state for the dog to eat the whole bone.
Uncooked chicken bones, pork ribs, neck of lamb and salmon heads are all good for your dog. I guarantee they will have little or no problem passing them and the dry bone passing out actually activates the dogs anal glands and helps to empty them.
19) WHAT ABOUT SALMONELLA?
Lets face it, any animal that can spend half it's life licking it's own backside and the backside of other dogs plus have the in built propensity to eat horse, cow, sheep and rabbit manure is not going to be too worried about what might be living on a chicken wing.
20) WHICH COMPLETE FOODS DO YOU RECOMMEND?
All our puppies are fed on Arden Grange Classic foods. When you come and see the puppies we will ask you if you would like us to bulk order a bag for you. This method means that you actually get to buy this premium grade food at the trade price.
21) MY FRIEND FED HER PUP ON WEETABIX AND MILK!
Isn't it amazing that since dog food companies started putting cheap cereals in dog foods as bulking agents then everyone thinks that dogs can digest cereal. You often see wolves sat down eating a pile of wheat or grass seeds (NOT).
Also the primary energy source in milk is called lactulose, puppies cease to be capable of utilising the energy from milk by the age of 8 or 9 weeks.
Puppies or adult dogs for that fact get little benefit from drinking milk. If you must then the closest thing to bitch's milk is goats milk and puppies abandoned by their mothers can be raised on this milk.
Puppies fed on large amounts of cereal and cows milk will have diahorea and gain little benefit from their food.
Forget all these fancy diets of rusks, cereals, elevenses, eggs and milk etc, etc. A puppy fed two to three times per day on a good complete puppy food and or raw food will have all the goodness it needs to grow in to a super fit and healthy animal.
22) MY DOG WON'T EAT, MY DOG IS FUSSY WITH IT'S FOOD. WHAT DO I DO?
Providing you have ruled out illness then do not worry. There is no such thing as a fussy dog, only a dog that is not hungry enough to eat.
Sometimes food refusal becomes a battle of wills and you should make sure you always win. A dog can force it's self to go days without eating, even a week, but provided it is drinking and you are happy it is not ill then do not worry too much.
Two or three times per day offer it a small portion of it's normal food and if it is not gone within 10 minutes then take it away and a few hours later offer it a fresh meal.
I sometimes get dogs refusing their complete food because they think if they do that they will get raw food. Well the answer to that is they get offered complete food for the next few days until they are eating. Then normal diet is resumed.
Dogs naturally gorge themselves on food, they should not really know where the next meal is coming from.
An old dog trainer once said to me and I think it is quite true, "A dog that has no desire for it's food has no lust for life".
23) PET INSURANCE AND DEALING WITH YOUR VET.
Vets are not the NHS, it is in their best interests as business people for your animal to be ill!!!!
All my puppies come with 16 weeks medical insurance and this will cover you for any mishaps like standing on your pup or it eating a roll of tin foil as one of my dogs once did.
However, if you tell your vet that your dog is insure I will bet you any money that any treatment given will be of the most expensive available and not necessarily be beneficial to the dog.
You should always give your vet the impression that as far as your pet is concerned money is tight.
Often your vet will prescribe needless ear cleaner, tooth paste, wormers, pain killers and antibiotics needlessly.
If you don't believe me then go to your doctor and try to get them to give you antibiotics for a minor infection, you will be told to go away and take 2 paracetamol every 4 hours.
Next go to your vet and say your dog is under the weather, you will then get charged £20 for a blood test, £15 for 10p worth of penicillin, £35.00 for the lab report, £10 for a steroid injection to boost the appetite and £30 for some Hills prescription diet for which your vet is getting a massive incentive for each batch he/she sells.
Vets are professionals and when things go wrong you need them, but don't believe all they say. Be suspicious, pick out the marketing hype from the diagnosis and if you are suspicious of what they say get a second opinion from a totally unrealted vet, but do not tell this second vet about the previous diagnosis.
My vet knows he cannot bullsh*t me and we have a mutual respect for each other. I am always available to call and I will look for you and see what my vet books say but I must reiterate, when things go wrong you must go to your vet!!!!
24) How often should I worm my dog and what should I use?
All dogs will pick up worms, generally round worms and sometimes tape worms at different stages in their lives.
Puppies often have worms and it is the responsibility of a good breeder to ensure your dog has been wormed using a premium grade wormer.
I worm all my pups at least 3 times before they leave me. I use the fastest acting and most powerful puppy wormer on the market (Drontal puppy suspension). It is not cheap, but it works.
My adult dogs are wormed at least 4 times per year generally using Panacur liquid which you pour on to their food.
I do not recommend these wormers you can buy off the shelf in supermarkets etc, they are over priced and under efficient.
When your pup leaves me I would advise that you worm it another 3 times prior to it being 6 months old, by this time they have developed a small amount of resistance to the worm cysts.
If you own a cat I would suggest that you worm your puppy and your adult dogs with Drontal at least once during all the times that you worm your dog in a year. This is because cat fleas carry a tape worm larvae that can infect your dog, this is only killed by using Drontal.
The rest of the time you can use Panacur as it is milder and very effective on roundworm.
25) Where do I get these wormers from?
I use a company called Vet-medic. They have a website and all orders for wormer are postage free and much cheaper than your vet.
or
If you have more than one dog then consider buying in bulk. Drontal is much cheaper if you buy them in 10's and 10% Panacur for dogs is the same as 10% Panacur for sheep and cattle. If you buy 500ml or 1l you can save a small fortune.
You are not supposed to do it, but if you get together with your friends and share a bulk order you can save over £100 on wormer.
Generally Panacur and Drontal have a shelf life of over two to three years.
26) What books do you recommend?
For general puppy rearing and training I like any books by Ian Dunbar or Gwen Bailey. Having met Gwen I can say that she really is a very good trainer, she is the senior behaviourist with the Blue Cross.
For gundog training I like a book called "Gundogs Their Learning Chain" By Joe Irving. This is a good starting point for all would be gundog trainers.
There are lots of good dog training books available at CROSSKEY'S ANIMAL BOOKSHOP.
http://www.crosskeysbooks.com/
27) HOW DO YOU TEACH A DOG TO PEE ETC ON COMMAND?
First settle on a command word or phrase. My friend uses "Do your duty". I say "Hurry up". Which ever way try to pick something which is more often used to command your dog to mess.
Next arm yourself with some nice treats. If you are training a puppy and it has a mistake in the house don't say anything just scoop the pup up and take it outside.
Once outside watch your dog carefully as soon as it squats to do whichever function then happily repeat your command phrase or word over and over in a happy praising voice.
When your dog has finished then reward it with lots of praise and a treat, keep saying your command phrase and good dog etc whilst giving it praise and treats.
Your dog will quickly learn what it is supposed to do when you take it outside and use your command phrase. You know when it has sunk in as you dog goes from having one wee to several in anticipation of the reward.
28) WE ARE LOOKING FOR A PUPPY DUE ON THE 27TH OF JULY. IT MUST BE GOLDEN WITH CUTE BROWN EYES, AN UNDOCKED TAIL AND A MEDIUM LENGTH NON SHEDDING COAT. ALSO IT WOULD IDEALLY COME FULLY HOUSE TRAINED AND WITH NO DESIRE TO CHEW OR BITE.
CAN YOU HELP????
Yes of course I can, I will just go to the cupboard and open a foil sealed packed of puppies with those characteristics. I will endeavor to open the packet 7 weeks prior to the 27th of July.
Please remember when enquiring about or buying a dog that they do not come made to order. We are working with nature not Marks & Spencers.
29) MY PUPPY KEEPS BITING ME AND THE KIDS, HOW DO WE STOP IT?
Puppies are no different to human babies, babies put everything in their mouths to test it as it is one of their more highly developed sensors and the same is the case with puppies.
The difference with a puppy is that it has needle sharp teeth. When a puppy bites or mouths you they are working out in their minds how much pressure is to much. Sometimes they learn from other pups in the whelping box how much hurts. Sometimes the mother will tell them how much hurts.
However, in the absence of those you must be a substitute.
The first method of dealing with it is to scream or yell loudly, startling the puppy then walking away or putting your puppy down on the floor and ignoring it totally. If your puppy appears suitably shocked by this quick and loud reaction try to give it an appropriate bite or chew toy and praise it for biting the correct article and not you.
However, if that fails then you must resort to a little gentle punishment.
As you puppy is biting give a short sharp tug on one of it's ears and say "NO". This will really startle your pup and they should immediately wander off to do something safer :) At this point try to fill the gap with an appropriate toy or game. But if the biting persists then you have to raise your game and tug a little harder.
As a field trialing man once said to me "First rule of cocker training. Their ears don't come off when you pull em"!
30) WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER WHEN TRAINING A DOG?
My answer to this is that contrary to popular myth your dog does not possess a sufficiently large enough brain to work out that it is capable of doing anything just to spite you!!!!
Dogs do not chew your carpet to spite you, they do it because their teeth are hurting, they are bored, they are stressed or they have nothing more suitable to do.
Also the second golden rule is that dogs do not do things for you because they love you!
Look at all areas of your dogs behaviour and try and pick out in what way it will benefit the dog.
A dog wants to sit on your knee for a number of reasons, they like being close to the pack for one, the other is that it is softer and warmer than the floor.
Dogs sit or lay down or come back to you when told to for one of two reasons dependant on how you have trained them.
Firstly there might be something in it for them, a treat or just a a pat and an approving voice.
Secondly, they might be frightened that if they do not comply you will knock the living daylights out of them and life is much easier if you can avoid a dammed good kicking. (I do not recommend this type of training).
Although it might appear so, dogs do not really love you!!!! They have varying levels of respect and admiration for you. If you are a happy, benevolent and interesting pack leader they will show more interest and admiration in you.
If you ignore them, constantly knag them and give unclear signals as to your rules, regulations and what is required you will leave them feeling unsure and unhappy in your presence and as such they will not want to spend a great deal of time pleasing you.
31) HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG TO, ETC, ETC.
Never try to teach our dog anything unless you have first worked out what rocks your dogs world. By that I mean work out what motivates your dog, is it food or is it a special toy or a desire to be allowed to do something else.
There are plenty of dog training books out there to tell you how to do this. I like a book called "Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson". Another which on the face of it may not seem applicable but is highly informative is a book called "Schutzhund obedience in drive by Godfieid Dildei and Sheila Booth".
This second book is quite specialised but tells you how to manipulate the drives and desires in your dog using either positive or negative methods (pleasure or pain).
When you have worked out what rocks your dogs world then you have a means of creating "ATTENTION". There is no point embarking on the teaching of anything unless you first have attention!!!!!!!!
32) WHERE DO I GET THOSE SPECIALIST DOG TRANSIT BOXES CUSTOM MADE FOR THE BACK OF MY CAR?
The first thing to remember is that if you swap and change your car at the drop of a hat there is no point in getting one custom made. The cages cost around £300.00 and as such are not something you want to change every year.
I personally have a box in the back of my car made by a company called LINTRAN. The box has served me well and up until recently this company dominated the UK transport box market.
I like totally enclosed boxes so that if a wet dog shakes it does not respray the interior of your car. The best I have seen on the market at the moment and will certainly be my next buy are made by a company called C.A.B.
CAB ANIMAL TRANSIT BOXES
22 SCARBOROUGH ROAD
NORTON, MALTON, NORTH YORKS
YO17 8AB
TEL 01653 697096
FAX 01653 690856
I get no kickback from recommending any company so give them a call and ask for a catalogue then tell them to have a look at my website and see if they will sponsor me for a box :))))))
You will not be disappointed with this product.
33) HOW MUCH EXERCISE SHOULD WE GIVE OUR PUPPY?
Puppies bones are quite soft and easily damaged. Do everything in moderation, don't get an 8 week old pup and start walking 3 or 4 miles with it on concrete and paved surfaces. A couple of hundred yards is more than enough especially if you are playing with a toy at the same time. Exercise on grass is much better.
If you overstress the puppies bones at an early age you can cause diseases similar to arthritis and osteo-porosis in the joint capsules of the bones.
34) WE WANT TO PUT OUR NAME ON YOUR LIST FOR A GOLDEN PUPPY.
Please don't go on a list expecting to get a specific colour. I like unusually coloured cockers as much as the next person, but I do not breed for colour!!!!!
In working dogs it is quite feasible to put two golden's together and get all blacks.
Dogs are not designer accessories!! You should be more worried about it's temperament and health than the colour of it's coat.
35) Why do you sometimes have two litters at the same time, are you a puppy farm?
For starters we are not, never have been or ever will be a puppy farm!!!!!
I think I have said previously that we are dealing with nature here. In all breeds of animal, when they are kept in close proximity to each other they often become fertile at the same time.
We have to bare in mind that 6 months later might be the dead of winter, Christmas (We don't like selling litter near Christmas) or we might be going on holiday so we have to make the conscious decision to work hard and have two litters within a couple of weeks of each other.
We have the facilities and time to do this, all our pups turn out fit and well both physically and psychologically.
36) WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF A PUPPY FARM?
A dog breeder is not a puppy farm by virtue of the amount of breeding bitch's or litters they have!
Puppy farms tend to have various different breeds for sale. Often they are small and easy to manage breeds that bring a premium in the pet market. Sometimes these pups are not even born on the premises. Often whole litters are bought in from unscrupulous and unsanitary breeders to sell on at these dog type supermarkets.
You can tend to tell a puppy farm by the care they provide for their dogs and pups. Things tend to be done on the cheap, profit and loss are always at the forefront of every decision. The dogs tend to be housed on the cheap, fed on the cheap and cared for on the cheap.
Often puppies will come from these places riddled with worms and fleas. They will have had very little human attention or affection, their contact being limited to cleaning and feeding times.
Never buy a puppy because you feel sorry for it by virtue of it's care or surroundings. Make your excuses, get back in your car, drive down the road and have a chat about what you liked and what you did not.
If at all unsure then drive away!!!!!!!!!
Never buy a puppy on what we call the "R" factor. Otherwise translated to "Ahhhh, isn't it cute".
If on your search for a puppy you visit a premises you believe to be a puppy farm then please report them to this action group http://www.mediacave.co.uk/wag/index.htm
37) WE WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DOG PSYCHOLOGY SO WE CAN ENSURE THAT OUR PUP GETS THE BEST START IN LIFE.
Try this website http://www.dpca-breeders-education.com/superpuppy.htm
It has a good overview of the stages of psychological development in puppies. As it says in the article, good dogs are not just born they are made.
A bad puppy is not just a fault of breeding. If your puppy turns out with any psychological hang-ups then you can attribute at least 90% of them to you the owner!!!!
38) DOES MY PUPPY COME WITH ANY INSURANCE????
Ian & Joanne at Briarquest undertake that if a puppy becomes seriously ill through a genetic defect (fault of breeding) we will do everything we can to facilitate the replacement of that puppy either fully or at least give a substantial discount on a pup from a future unrelated litter. (WE DO REQUIRE PROOF FROM YOUR VET).
As to medical insurance. All our puppies come with 16 weeks medical insurance which has been arranged through DBI (Dog Breeders Insurance).
Although I do explain when you take your puppy, I will reiterate on this page that you must, must , must ring this company with the details provided and activate the insurance!!!!!!
I am typing this after receiving a phone call from the very upset owner of a 12 week old puppy this morning. The puppy had swallowed something which had lodged in the bowel and has needed major surgery. Unfortunately the medical insurance had not been registered and they were facing a bill of at least £700.00.
39) ARE THERE ANY DISCUSSION FORUMS TO GO ON AND GET A SECOND OPINION ON ALL THESE FAQ'S ?
Yes there are quite a few, but a new and very well organised one which is run by sensible people is: